Відео

Love your videos! Looks like you were in 6th gear when you were riding on the grass, then on the street you were going 40 mph opened up, you probably could have gone a few mph faster in 7th gear! THUMBS UP!

I was thinking about this today, and knew someone out there had already done it the way I was imagining. And here you are! Thank you for sharing your rationale and real world experience on this design.

Is this the step over model

How do I get the link to save $50?

Just found your site and disappointed I missed out. If you do these (26x4) again, will definitely be interested.

6:00 Folks, this is NOT Southern California! (NC envy) 😒

Well my rear brakes don't squeal when I hit the disc brakes I have an e-bike it makes sounds just riding, still cannot find the problem where it's coming from the company I bought the bike from clean the back areas of the disc with alcohol twice it seemed to work for a while I got home and the squeaking started up again I wish there was a spray I could just spray back there this is getting frustrating

I'm 68 and had a medical issue and lost my license. I recovered quickly in a month and am trying to get my license back. I passed two neuro test and driving test but my state is extremely slow and incompetent. I finally got ok to begin driving lessons but have heard nothing from the school. I'm ready researching and was ready to go with Lectric because I thought it was an American company, but was extremely disappointed to find out they used outsourced parts from China. I heard negative reviews about Rads customer service which worries me.

If your up to it, or if not hire an electrical person to do it, but put in some time doing research on all those connections, as most controllers, motors, displays, etc have alot of the same connections on their PCBs, even if the wiring harnesses, connectors vary widely, but after doing that, find a manuf/distributor to make the most common to start and sell them at a major premium... People would buy them just to save themselves the hassle and its not price gouging (although some will say that, inevitably) as you took the initiative as well as did the R&D. I think youd rake it in and once all the research/manuf vendors were sorted, itd be alot simpler than shipping in batt pks. Its a heck of alot at the start no doubt but the payoff might be outstanding as your kindve the first, I think? Just my 2C

Citizen Cycle is EVOLVING! Your a builder !

Thanks to you ill be ordering 1 soon.

For the algorithm.

How do you turn on the front light?

All I know is that I have the Eahora M1PS on the way, and I am so excited! Was going to get the Aniioki A8 Pro Max w/dual motors, but I decided on the other for various reasons.

I just bought Blix Vika+ and my feet can easily touch the ground while seated but when I pedal, my legs bend too much. I'm 5'.

I love my aventon aventure and honestly I actually pedal so it doesn't "NEED" more power but who doesn't WANT more power. My biggest beef with it, is the lack of user adjust-ability of the pedal assist levels. I have the 1.0 version with the cadence sensor. If you have ever ridden in a group with other bikes, you soon realize none of them will match speeds. I am constantly tapping the brake lever to shut off motor to slow down, or pedaling past the cadence level to catch up. So being selfish (I realize) I would love a 35-40 amp controller and a more programmable screen to make my already pretty good bike, much better.

What is the drone that you use to record I thought that was really cool I might need to get one of those

Hey Brian love you videos i watch them all i am still on the fence about the wired freedom and the ecells mainly because I was going to get the basic one but i am not sure now i am confused because when you do your range test the bike seems faster than you fitst show the bike with dual batteries ? Thanks

Have enjoyed your channel but thought it poor judgement to ride into/on a fenced, groomed baseball field. Simply put, it is an area for playing baseball, not staging a bicycle video. You have become a respected E-bike spokesperson. Other Citizens are inclined to follow the examples of those they respect.

Dude, if you could just come up with plug and play adapters that you could plug in to join the 2 non matching ends you would make good money. I ñeed a set now. I have a bike that came from the factory in AWD, (E Cells). Sell a kit like that, one which is pŕoduced for AWD.

Why would companies create standard parts so you can sell your products???? Products that would exceed their specifications and violate their warranties. I'm not seeing an issue here make me understand.

Which one would you buy Bandit x trail pro or Rollroad Emma 3.0

I see your seathight is really low. This will make pedaling much harder, as well as active handling. This is more like riding a motorcycle then. I have a body powered fat bike and you won't touch ground with your feet until you stop and start leaning the whole thing. I used to go with lightweight bikes, with really a tiny amount of rubber . High speed onto the hill and keep momentum is the concept. Now I wish to have a trike or even four by four, for icy roads and the fact that my knees are really bad. 56 year old, some overweight, yes I'm working on it. But is that the concept, sitting that low? Like on a downhill bike.

Let’s see if I can explain this right! You come up with an upgraded part, with out a connector. Now, you come up with a great solution to connect your part to an existing bike part motor wire, battery wire etc. then you sell your connector (male& female) with your upgraded part to complete the installation..the customer will have to cut the wire end of the existing part and install your new connector to add your upgraded part. Hopefully if successful the new bike industry will catch on and start using your great new electric wire connection as an industry standard. Not only will you sell your better part but create a better way to install it to an existing bike. In conclusion not only offering better aftermarket technology but also providing a more reliable alternative to connecting your upgrades to existing bike parts. THE CITIZEN CONNECTOR!! Tc from Nevada

People please do not do this Don't do what this dummy just did This is a good way Catch fire on the bike And the battery can explode

Nice color

Tariffs do nothing for the working man but keep prices high for the lazy wealthy man.

Thanks Trump and Biden!!! For the wonderful tariffs on China so we can pay more for stuff that the USA cant manufacture anymore..Jesus thank you lord.

My biggest complaint? Not having 2 e-bikes 1 for me and 1 for a buddy!

Plug adapters is all I can think of.

If you want to do a controller, You can make 2 or 3 common adapter harnesses for some common bikes. Or you can offer 2 or 3 different controllers for different bikes. When I say common, I mean bikes that people like to modify or bikes that are good for modifications. It will take some research, nothing too crazy but itll be some work. It would get easier once it gets rolling, and it would definitely pay off. I think it would be awesome, I think its very much needed. Its just gonna be a test of your passion and how bad you wanna break new ground within the ebike world. I can tell you, without a doubt, the community is dying for someone to do this. Obviously youre capable, you have the means, the knowledge base etc etc. Like I said, The question is, where is your heart? and how far are you willing to go?

How about a Vitilan bike? Specifically a Vitilan T7 e-bike .As you know the take off speed is pitiful. So disappointed in that bike,

What is possible with the Wallke H9 AWD?

We used to cut up skinny straws and put them on our spokes when we were kids.

Too bad there isn’t a catalog that shows every connector for every component on every e-bike. Then you can just include the needed adapters with each kit you sell. I think as you figure out how to find your niche, working out the different connectors and how to make these components work, you are going to tap into a huge market and opportunity! I can see you selling up to 1000 kits a day.

You should develop interfaces/plugs between existing wire plug types and your plug type. It's a new market that doesn't exist. Order the minimum quantities of each type and see how it sells...

Wish id bought the wired freedom..I screwed up big time and bought a goat power bikes billy goat v2...horrible horrible customer service...had my delivery date changed 6 different weeks past the original date with lame excuses...brakes suck and does not hit its claimed 44 mph with a 240 lb rider..I only hit 39 with a tail wind..bike showed up damaged and after emailing the company I still haven't received any replacement parts weeks later...don't buy from them..buy wired freedom or e cells 5 star instead..

So if I order mine today we get these upgrades?? Thanks for the update and awesome videos, stay safe man!

Usually the first REPLACEMENT I make on every single e-bike I've bought, is the headlight. Even the high-end ebikes seem only to provide a weak, unusable (at least to me), unsafe, 1/4 Watt LED headlight. Even on a dark night one can barely see the pavement more than 8 feet in front of you. I usually go with a 10 Watt LED light, and have gone up to 22 Watts. Last time I looked, a high-power, flex-voltage (e.g. 10-86VDC LED light) with uniform and good beam distribution costs anywhere from about US$15-$30. I use the ebike battery to power the light. However, I have also had to ALWAYS add a heatsink to the high power light and improve it's water resistance. Even when the webpage claims the light has a rating of something like IPx6 or IPx7, they are often no better than IPx5 at best...they actually had exposed holes rain could pour through and short-out the electronics. Note that sealing the holes from rain reduces interior ventilation which means you need a good heatsink. Without a heatsink, many of the high power lamps' cases can get hot enough to boil water...which can not only cause burns of course, but early failure of the lamp. Instead of replacing the weak 1/4 Watt headlight, one could also go for a "portable" handlebar attachable LED headlight that can be easily removed. Those usually come with their own battery pack, but are often not as bright as I'd like them to be, and again, their CLAIMED IPxy ratings are often higher than they are in the real-world and rain can quickly damage them. Some also run very hot and depending on the design can cause burns.

So I can get generic parts I have to mess with all sorts of places, including Amazon. If I was going to buy after market parts from someone like you I would expect them to be better than what I can just pick up from other places. With that said, it dosnt have to be 100% plug and play. Most of the people buying this stuff are reasonably competent. What I would do is make sure that the plugs on your controller for example all have the same ports for the same items across all controllers you would sell. One standard battery connector, one standard throttle connector, etc. I would then make adapter cables for the most common plug types to sell as addons. I know there are endless options and you cant stock everything, but I am also guessing there are probably only a hand full of battery connectors. Yeah, you will never be able to get them all, but maybe you could get 70% off all battery possibilities with 5 or 10 different adapter cables.

07:00 Re "get a big battery" It's also CRITICAL that you get a QUALITY battery pack made with QUALITY lithium-ion cells. It won't matter how "big" they CLAIM the pack is if it doesn't actually deliver the Ah or Wh they claim, or if it stops fully charging in less than a year. For example, I've purchased ebikes claiming they came with a battery that provided "X" Amp-Hours (Ah), and using industry standard test protocols, I determined that their NEW battery pack in fact delivered only about 60% of the claimed amount (e.g. a "17Ah" pack in the real-world would deliver only 10Ah). Taking such packs apart I'd find they used no-name generic Li-ion cells that had no labeling or specs and could have come from anywhere. However, most new packs I tested at least delivered about 90% of the Ah they claimed. If the company won't (or can't) tell you what brand of lithium-ion cells they use, then my first choice is to avoid it completely, because the battery is often the single most expensive component of the ebike, especially on "entry-level" ebikes. Note: a number of vendors simply CAN'T tell you what brand of li-ion cell is used because they sub-contract out their battery procurement and they have no idea what's inside. You could be getting junk cells. One also has to be wary of COUNTERFEIT "brand" cells, especially if you buy aftermarket/3rd party battery packs.

Same thing is happening in EV cars and trucks.. everything is proprietary. Sucks for right to repair or modify anything. IMHO I would pick the few best selling ebikes and build for modifying them and then slowly expand to others. Especially with the new tariffs in place, things might slow down in the near term unfortunately. Good luck and keep the great info coming!

I’m thinking about just going for the whole deal including the rear wheel and motor so I’ve got usable bike. The way this thing is now it’s so aggravating when you drive it. But that would solve my problem with just putting a whole new system on the bike.

Re weight of ebikes. *_How much of that extra weight is due to "Fat" tires and "Mountain Bike" tires AND the much heavier wheels required to support using them?_* Follow-up question: *_Why aren't there more offerings of ebikes that come standard with "street" tires?_* I've been told "Fat" and "Mountain Bike" tires are often added to an ebike mostly as a *_substitute_* instead of providing a good lightweight suspension design and/or a shock absorber to make a ride more comfortable for the "casual" ebike consumer. Unfortunately, these non-street tires ("Fat" tires especially due to their very low pressure), substantially increase rolling resistance (aka rolling friction) which makes a bike harder to manually pedal and significantly reduces the mileage you can get in most undemanding city riding conditions from a single charge of any type of battery. For example, an ebike using high-pressure "street" tires on dry level pavement might get 10% more miles out of a battery charge than an ebike using "Fat" or "Mountain Bike" tires. That's like adding 2 more miles to the range of a "20 mile" range ebike and battery. The vast majority of my day-to-day riding is on level pavement, and I'd really like the option of buying an reasonably priced off-the-shelf ebike that comes standard with high-pressure street tires and still provides a reasonably comfortable ride. It's better for me and due to longer battery life reduces landfill waste (EV components and chemicals that can't be recycled are not trivial. For example, even now...colored plastics are often NOT recycled).

imagine that going 46 mph and suddenly one of your tire blew out…😢 if i want to go over 40mph i ride my motorcycle instead.

Ran into this recently. My Ancheer e-bike battery was getting crappy range and I went to get a new battery with more amp hours. Same size outer case, brackets,etc. but the terminals were a different configuration even though it’s from the same company only a year later. Hopefully the e-bike industry will learn from the cordless power tool industry and make some one size fits all parts. I’m dreading rewiring the new battery. Love the peel outs in your video!

Wouldn’t trust this thing at speed think the bike is good but not for this seems kinda sketch not as bad as the other guy though tho… maybe it was the heavier bike that helped you

It's E-bikes like this that will bring in the Feds and State regulators when daddy lets his irresponsible kids loose on public bike/walking trails with this thing.

One motor